Bryan on Corvairs and such

I think this will be a little stream - maybe more like a creek - of conciousness.

Sunday, October 28, 2007

Found the problem

So, last update on the '66 Corsa was I had put a "basement" 110 in it that was said to be a good runner when pulled. On startup, it had enormous blowby out the vent tube, no apparent smoke out the tailpipe. My thought and the concensus on VV was that most likely a broken ring. Well, we were close, the #2 piston is eroded at the top of the cylinder all the way down to the top ring (click on the photo for a full size image):




The head looks ok, with just a little bit of aluminum sprayed into the coubustion chamber:




I am replacing the cylinders and barrels, my concern is what caused this, I would guess that it was running lean at some point. I'm using a different set of carbs but the head will go back on. Anything else I should look at? Thanks for any suggestions.

Sunday, October 07, 2007

Tricky cylinder head nut tool

Following some posts on VV about the super two in one cylinder head nut tool that Snap On and Mac (and maybe others) made for Corvairs, I recalled there was a description in the CORSA Tech Guide for making your own. Since I have several engine projects in the works, and one just ready to torque a head on, I decided to make one up. I've also read a few other tips regarding sockets to use on the head nuts, so I combined all of the info I had together.

Basically, the tool is two sockets that can nest inside one another, with a 3" piece of 3/8" square stock and a spring joining them. That way driving one turns both, and the spring automatically extends the inner socket for you. For the sockets, I used a 14mm, which gives a snug fit on the top 9/16" nuts, and a 13/16" spark plug socket for the rocker studs. On the 13/16 socket, I filed the chamfer off since the hex on the rocker stud is so short.

Once assembled, I taped a 7/8" socket on the drive hex at the end of the spark plug socket to drive the whole shebang. There's just enough room under the intake for the tool to fit, and with the tight 14mm socket it helped to spray the outside of the upper nuts with WD-40 so the socket would slip on with the light spring pressure (a stiff spring would make the tool tough to use).

The result was good, although maybe not worth the time if you're only building one engine. Since I have a couple engine projects lined up, I think it was well worth the investment.

Photos: